Lake Bled, Slovenia….(AKA the most beautiful place on earth!)

I added Slovenia to our itinerary as an afterthought. If we were going to Croatia, sure why not take in a little of Slovenia as well? Shame on me! Shame. On. Me!! Slovenia is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. And its only Day Two!

We started our morning with a little trek up to the castle. There’s more than a little climb involved, and once at the top we debated paying the 24 euro to actually go in. So glad we did! The views of Lake Bled from the castle are phenomenal. There was also a little museum that the kids had fun wandering around in.

 

Lake Bled has a walking/ bike trail all the way around it, so we took a stroll around some of the lake in the afternoon. Again, the views of the lake bowled us over. Candy for the eyes!

 

We may have to bring swimsuits tomorrow and use this slide to catapult into the lake!

Wyatt mentioned more than once how clean everything is- the streets, the air, the buildings!

You’ve probably already spotted in the photos, there’s an island with a church living in the middle of the lake. Church bells drift melodically from the island on a regular basis. We decided to take a traditional Pletna boat out to see the tranquil baroque style church up close and personal. It’s basically one poor guy rowing 15 of our lazy arses a couple of kilometers out to the island.

We got dropped off for forty minutes and visited the church, and had the kids ring the wishing bell inside the church. (Now we know why we are constantly hearing church bells at Lake Bled!)

 

Just like the custard tarts in Lisbon, Slovenia has it’s own dessert speciality: the cream cake! We took a trip to the site of the apparent origination of the cream cake: The Hotel Park Terrace. Our waiter told us they make 30 million cream cakes a year, enough to make a cream cake road from Lake Bled to Rome! While KJ has found a new favorite sweet, the rest of us thought it was so- so. Too much cream for my liking.

And who would have guessed how the evening would end? With my kids finding a Slovenian playground right by our place! Surprise! Surprise! We are off to Lake Bohinj tomorrow, which is supposed to be even more spectacular than Bled. Not sure how that will be possible!

Hi Dada! We missed you!

Today marked the start of our Slovenia leg of the sabbatical, and the day the littles (and I) got to see Dada again after three and a half weeks. Happy Days!

We are starting our adventure at Lake Bled….and genuinely, it is heaven on earth! (I’ll post more on Lake Bled tomorrow.)

It was evening by the time we were all settled and a quick glance at trip advisor showed us that the top family restaurant was down the road from us. It was goooood!

Great start to The Big Trip!

Stunning West Cork, Ireland.

Lads! The sky was blue today in Cork and It. Was. Amazing!!!

Dad and I bundled the kiddos into the car and took a spin down to Mizen Head in West Cork. Mizen Head is located at the most southerly tip of Ireland. We couldn’t have picked a better day for the trip. The views of the cliff chasms falling into the spurning Atlantic Ocean were spectacular!

A stern, concrete bridge (which apparently used to be one of those terrifying, swinging bridges) leads you across the cliffs to a lonely, unused lighthouse whose current job is to act as an unassuming educational museum, giving tourists little glimpses into its past.

The theme of this trip was- what comes down, must come back up! Grandad heavily assisted in the coming back up part. A picnic lunch was devoured upon returning to the car.

Do you have a place where you and your family visited on a regular basis when you yourself were a kid? The next leg of our West Cork adventure took us to my childhood summer stomping ground- Barleycove.

We even took a spin by the camping site my family frequented many, many moons ago. As with most childhood recollections, I remember it being much bigger!

Next stop was the quaint fishing village of Crookhaven. There is a little pub here called O’Sullivans that serves delicious food overlooking the action of the tiny harbor. We also stumbled upon an old, idyllic church seemingly painted onto its scenic background.

It was the glimpse of a playground that made us squeal to a stop at Ballydehob and subsequently explore the arching bridge and surrounding nature walk.

At this stage, the kiddos were starting to get a little antsy. Nothing that couldn’t be solved with a stop in Schull with some homemade Cork ice-cream. Yummo!

The next stage of the plan was to visit Lisard Estate and Gardens as I had heard it is spectacular. But when we rocked up to the gate it was closed. It only opens on weekends in the offseason. The best-laid plans, huh? So we plowed on to the next town called Castletownsend and fell in love with West Cork again for the fourth or fifth time that day.

The kids had been troopers all day and we were coming up on a stage of the evening where the, “When are we going home?” questions were starting to enter the conversation. So we pushed our luck and stopped off at our last West Cork port of call for the day: Drombeg Stone Circles. Drombeg Stone Circles is an ancient megalithic site that, like any good Irish pagan site, ties into the Winter Solstice. The kiddos put an orange on the altar (it was the only thing we had left in the car!) and we gave thanks for all the blessings we have in life.

On the way home I asked the two littles what their highlights of the day had been? No mention of cliffs…..or stone circles……or bridges! Playgrounds! The playground at Mizen Head……

……and Barleycove……

…..and Ballydehob!

Yup! Sounds about right! All in all a most spectacular day in West Cork. When the sun comes out, there really is no better place than Ireland!

Adventures From A Real Irish Castle.

Ballincollig Castle is not your wait in a line, fully restored, pay admission to enter type of castle. It is a small, authentic, Norman fortification whose ruins sit watchful over the Maglin Valley in Cork. Even getting to the castle is an adventure, especially on a wet day in April. There are no signposts to this castle. You earn your way through mucky fields and winding laneways. A rusty bike, some Irish bunnies in said fields and animal footprints were spotted on the expedition to the castle. (I think a dog made the footprints. My kids surmised about a giant Easter Bunny.)

It’s windy up there on the best of days and today the castle was a cacophony of strange howls and eerie banshee-like shrieks, invoking the spirits of the past.

The castle was constructed in the 13th century and is a reminder of a different time in Ireland when Knights and Lords representing an invading country ruled the land. History has not been kind to this little castle and it is now nestled in to the grey sky in a state of disrepair, where teenagers come on the weekends to sneak a tin of beer and escape the glare of their parents.

A true, authentic Irish castle if ever there was one!

Will We Go For A Cuppa?

It wasn’t until I left Ireland that I recognized just how Irish the institution of ‘having a cuppa’ is.

Visiting a relative’s house? “Will you have a cuppa?”

Sitting around with the family after dinner? “Who wants a cuppa?”

Meeting friends in town? “Will we grab a cuppa?”

Sitting down over a hot cup of tea (black tea, preferably Lyons or Barrys- none of this fancy schmancy fruit or green tea stuff!) or coffee and having a chinwag is ingrained in an Irish person’s core. It is the first question you will be asked upon entering an Irish person’s house. Whether the conversation is about the excitement of the front page headlines of The Irish Times or the mundane of the grey weather, it will inevitably happen over a cuppa.

One of my favorite things about my annual trips home is the mornings my mom and I spend grabbing a cuppa at one of the local cafes. I heard recently that Ballincollig has close to 15 cafes, such is our penchant for the old cuppa! Over the last three weeks, mom and I did our darndest to partake in a Tour De Ballincollig Cafes! Here are some of the lovely establishments we visited.

Starbucks

Ah, lads! You know Ballincollig has made it when a Starbucks sets up shop. It’s in a beautiful building in the middle of Ballincollig Square. Not much to say about this one- if you’ve been to one Starbucks, you’ve pretty much been to them all.

Puccino’s

This one is upstairs from Easons in Ballincollig Shopping Center. Apart from the fact that the stairs make strollers hard to navigate, it’s pretty kid-friendly. There’s a small play table for little ones and coloring for the bigger ones. The food is decent and the views over Ballincollig Square are lovely.

Nosh and Coffee

Another one of Ballincollig Shopping Center’s many cafes. There are some lovely paninis at this cafe, and if the downstairs is too busy you can always truck upstairs for some peace and quiet.

Bite Size

One of Ballincollig’s newer cafes, the sweets here are really delicious. We happened to pop in after my Lisbon trip, and sitting right at the front of the counter was a plate of Pastel de Natas. Get In Ma Belly! We found out one of their bakers is Portuguese and was trying out this recipe for the first time.

Good for the Soul

This cafe has only opened in the last few weeks. It is the hipster cafe of Ballincollig. Even the menus are cool. Old hardback Beano and He-Man comics from the eighties enshrine the food choices. The poached egg and salmon brekkie was goooood! I felt very millennial getting the takeout avocado toast for my sister (which really was delish!)

The Plaza

This one is probably my favorite for our morning cuppa. It’s not fancy and is one of the oldest cafes- restaurants on the list. Mom and I have been coming here for years. In the summer we sit outside and let the kids run around the large, wide- open square by the cinema while we sip our tea. It was still a little cold for that this year. The kids’ scones were fresh out of the oven and I ordered my usual half Irish fry. The kids regaled the owner Mary with tales of their Irish vacation and ended up with lollipops for their troubles.

The Ballincollig Farmer’s Market

Every Wednesday, a little farmer’s market sets up in the square outside the Shopping Center. There is a lovely atmosphere and a plethora of places to grab a bite from. The Wednesday morning we went, a lady with a guitar serenaded us while we grabbed our cuppa.

The Chapel Gate Cafe

When you grab your cuppa at this cafe, you support BALANCE, an organization in Ballincollig that supports people with special needs. The staff are friendly, the food is fresh and it’s very kid friendly.

My Mom’s Kitchen Table

You just can’t beat this one!

A Stroll by the River Lee

My four year old turns to me this morning, “Even Mom…..even….it’s a very dirty day.” Yes KJ! It’s a grey, drizzly, dirty, soft, Irish type of a day in Cork. Do we

A. Sit on the couch and watch telly or

B. Take a stroll by the River Lee and see where the morning takes us?

Yep. We decided to pull on the hats and coats and take a gander into Fitzgerald’s Park.

Daly’s Bridge, locally known as The Shakey Bridge, is a suspension bridge spanning the River Lee and links Sunday’s Well to Fitzgerald’s Park in Cork. It was windy this morning so the kiddos really got to feel the shake!

The highlight of the morning was a fab trip to Fitzgerald’s Park. Have I mentioned my kids LOVE playgrounds??? And Fitzgerald’s Park has an awesome one!

The rest of the park is filled with fountains, cool structures, a Cork history museum and a couple of magical fairy doors.

Good old Michael and Dev stand proud, guarding the park from the corners.

A lovely outing to Fitzgerald’s Park and stroll by the River Lee.

A Morning at Fota Wildlife Park.

What to do on a grey, Cork, April morning that is actually dry? You load up the car with your sister, your kids, and your niece and take a trip to Fota Wild Life Park.

I’m never a big fan of the food offered at ‘kid friendly’ joints so we usually bring our own picnic to snack on as we go. D made us a delicious salmon salad that was a million times better than anything we could have picked up.

It might sound weird, but one of my favorite things about Fota is the ducks and the birdlife.

Of course, the kid’s favorite part had nothing to do with the actual animals in the wildlife park. They made great friends with a crow…..

….and had a gala playing on the various playgrounds and big slide.

Another great Cork morning in the books!

The Annual Mom and Daughter Spa Day.

Once a year for a few weeks, my mom, my sister and I are in the same time zone together in Cork and we try to make the most of it by taking a half day to the five star Hayfield Manor Spa, followed by a two-course lunch in Perrotts Restaurant. My dad is an absolute saint and takes the kids off our hands for the morning. This was our fourth year adhering to our annual tradition and it was absolutely divine!!! I think it might actually have been our best year to date.

We always arrive an hour or so before our treatments as you can take full advantage of the pool, sauna and outdoor jetted tub. It’s a lovely time for a good kid-free chinwag.

 

This year I opted for a hydrating facial for my hour-long treatment. It was absolute heaven. One of the most relaxing experiences I have had in a while and my skin is glowing tonight. Mom and D went for the half- massage, half- facial treatment and also reported a blissful hour.

After the treatments, the wonderful therapists lead us back to the pool for a treat of granola, yoghurt and berries. The manager was amazing and put little gift bags together for the three of us, as we were repeat customers.

The deal we get includes a two course lunch at one of the Hayfield Manor’s Restaurant, Perrotts.

Lunch was only gorgeous! Warmed goats cheese salad for D and I, and duck for Mom. Followed by delicious ham wrapped monk fish for D and I, and melt in your mouth beef for Mom. An absolutely divine afternoon! Until next year Hayfield Manor.

(I have absolutely zero affiliation with Hayfield Manor. It’s just always a highlight for the three of us when I come home.)

Towers, Tapas, and Being a Tourist…..Day 2 and 3 in Lisbon. (Part 3)

Right under our accommodation’s window was the meeting point of the yellow bus hop-on-hop-off tour so I spent the second day touring the city on the bus. Lisbon is so big that there are two bus routes about two hours each. One takes in the east side of the city, and the other takes in the west side. I did both and was immersed (via a pair of headphones) in the history of this old city.

It basically gave me an overall lay of the land and an idea of the areas I really wanted to explore the next day.

Barrio Alto is an area of Lisbon that comes alive at night. So Friday evening we decided to take a gander up there and see where the night took us. First up, a glass of yummy Portuguese wine on our rooftop balcony……(we really lucked out with our accommodation!)

Barrio Alto is made up of tons of these tiny little hole-in-the-wall restaurants/ bars serving tapas and drinks. People were spilling out into the streets from every doorway and the place was oozing with atmosphere. It was raining and we had been aimlessly wandering trying to find a place that could take us in and feed us. The naive Irish girls not realizing everyone in Lisbon ate LATE in the evening! We stumbled upon one of the many tiny places with 8 or 9 tables crammed into it, and they were able to squeeze us in.

A combination of delicious traditional Portuguese tapas was promptly ordered. This picture does not do the food justice! Get in our bellies!

Confession time: two kids later and I have genuinely turned in to a Granny! I made it to midnight before hopping in a taxi and embracing my bed with open arms. The other two ladies made it to half four in the morning. (Warriors!) Barrio Alto is the place to go if you are not a granny like me!

While doing the bus tour I had loved the historic glimpses I had caught of the Belem area and decided to properly explore the attractions there on our final day. Basically, there are three big attractions within walking distance of each other: The Jeronimos Monastery, The Torre de Belem, and The Padro dos Descobrimentos Monument.

Our initial plan was to come back at the end and tour the inside of the Jeronimos Monastery, as I had heard great things. Unfortunately, we ran out of time in the day. (You will see why in a minute!) But we did catch the impressive outside. This will be on my to-do list for the next Lisbon trip.

Trip Advisor lists the Torre de Belem (Tower of Belem) as Lisbon’s number one attraction. So this one seemed a no-brainer for us.

Guess how long we waited in the line before getting in???

Yep…..two hours!!! (It was a Saturday morning.) We found out later that we had been complete rookies. If you buy the combined monastery and tower tickets online in advance, you can totally by-pass the line and walk right up to the front. *Faceplant in palm.* I guess the silver lining was that I got some good shots of the tower while waiting…..and waiting……and waiting…..

The Torre de Belem is a little 16th century fort sitting on the Tagus River. Once we eventually got in we spent an hour exploring. The main entrance floor has a cannon room which leads to a little underground dungeon for prisoners.

There are five or six floors above this with, I think, a total of 93 steps. Be aware the steps get quite narrow- not ideal if you are claustrophobic.

There are some beautiful nooks and crannies within the tower.

Not to mention the views from the outside.

All in all, a really lovely experience, barring the two-hour wait.

We then strolled down the pier to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos Monument. This is a 52-meter high monument celebrating the Portuguese exploration era. It is made up of 33 statues with Henry the Navigator taking the stage front of the monument. It actually looks like the rest of them are trying to push him into the river!

The only female on the monument is Queen Felipa of Lancaster (good old Henry’s mom). Seems it doesn’t matter what era you’re in- women are underrepresented as leaders in the workplace! Good woman Felipa! Way to represent!

We decided to spend our final evening wandering the hills of the charming Alfama area. The narrow streets climb uphill to spectacular views and then fall clumsily into little valleys before taking aim at the high ground again.

We found a quirky, tiny, authentic Portuguese restaurant that had hats hanging from the ceiling and yet again enjoyed the most delicious tapas.

A beautiful way to end a highly enjoyable trip to Lisbon! Thanks for a fantastic time Lisboa! Until next time!

(Some of the photos courtesy of my traveling companion AM Kelly)

Cathedrals, Religious Art, Trolleys and Aimless Wandering! Day One in Lisbon. (Part 2)

I think the thing that surprised me most about Lisbon is how big this city is! It is definitely one of the bigger cities I have been to in terms of geography. We were there for three days, and could easily have spent another three days there and still had tons to do and see.

Between flights and getting checked in on the first day, it was 2 pm before we were free to start exploring and discovering the lay of the land. At this stage, I was approaching hangry so we basically stumbled into the first place we saw down by the river on the train station side and had a lovely lunch.

We had a fabulous view of the April 25th bridge. Weird name for a bridge I know but the story behind it is interesting. It’s a 2278 meter bridge that spans the River Tagus (the longest suspension bridge in Europe) and resembles the Golden Gate Bridge. The bridge was originally named the Salazar Bridge after the Portuguese dictator at the time. Can you guess the date Antonio Salazar was overthrown? Yup, you guessed it! The date of the bloodless revolution was April 25th, 1974, and the bridge was renamed accordingly.

After lunch, we began the aimless wandering that always accompanies Day One in a new unknown city. We happened upon this mysterious door that led into a dark tunnel which preceded up a steep hill….

…..and then all of a sudden a little yellow trolley appeared!

Well! If that was not an invitation to hop on! Turns out it literally takes you on a short and sweet ride up this very steep hill and that’s the end. The view at the top is really lovely!

These trolleys are all over Lisbon, the most famous being the Number 28 which takes you around the stunning, hilly Alfama area which is home to the famous Sao Jorge Castle. Thing is, the lines for this tram are reaaallllyyyy long (well over an hour at peak time). Some of the locals told us the number 12 and 25 take you on a very similar route sans the tourists and long lines.

There is a lot of religious history in Lisbon. For 300 years the Moors, who were Muslim, ruled the country. You catch glimpses of these Islam influences here and there, especially in some of the buildings.

Since Afonso Henriques drove the Moors out, Lisbon has become predominantly Catholic and ornate cathedrals and intricate basilicas litter the streets. The art inside these buildings is phenomenal and at times slightly terrifying. We spent much of our first day wandering into these churches and immersing ourselves in the art. The ceilings of these churches are particularly masterful.

There are so many to explore but my favorite was a little church called Igreja de Sao Roque (Church of Saint Roch). There was a huge earthquake in 1755 which pretty much decimated Lisbon. This church was one of the few to escape relatively unscathed. It is basically made up of tiny rooms with extremely elaborate religious art pieces.

There is a small room in the back which is made up of paintings and cabinets from top to bottom, including the ceiling.

Finally, the terrifying room was saved until the end. I forget the name, but I nicknamed it the Catholic Guilt Room.

We finished the day off with some famous Lisbon custard tart desserts- Pasteis de Nata- and delicious Portuguese white wine in an outdoor cafe looking on to Praca do Comercio.

Bliss!