The Rugged Hook Peninsula, County Wexford, Ireland

We arrived down to Hook Peninsula in Wexford after a three plus hour journey from Louth, into howling winds and hail from Storm Hector, and I thought, “Ah here now! What have I arrived into!?!” It feels like you are on the edge of the world on that peninsula. Luckily, when we woke up the next morning, it was birds chirping, clear blue skies and a little heat in the air (for Ireland!!) This day was especially good because my mom, and my sister and her kids drove up from Cork to join us for a few nights. Here are some of the things we did while on Hook Peninsula.

Hook Lighthouse

Hook Lighthouse was built 800 years ago and is the oldest operational lighthouse in the world. We had smashing views of the lighthouse that morning against the backdrop of the blue sky and the rugged Irish Sea.

You can actually take a tour of the lighthouse but our crew had more fun exploring the rocks and pools under the lighthouse.

And then Gran tried to show her American granddaughter how to play rugby…..or at least her version of rugby….

Sandeel Bay

There was a lovely little sheltered beach called Sandeel Bay Beach right by our holiday home. It was evening time when we arrived and the tide was in so the beach was not accessible for us. The cousins didn’t care in the slightest as there was a sliver of sand at the top of the bay that they were able to play on. The world’s most expensive buckets and spades came in handy yet again!

Lotus Hall

There are ruins and abandoned houses and manors all over this part of the country, and I wondered what stories each one could tell. A random field hid what looked like the wall of a tower.

And as you round a corner another sudden, dilapidated, forgotten house greets you. So it came as no surprise to learn that Ireland’s most haunted house is on Hook Peninsula.

Lotus Hall is a sight to behold and it’s desolation and loneliness can be felt from far away.

I decided to take the forty five minute tour sans kids and I’m really glad I did. The tour guide ensured he kept it interesting by leading us into dark, spooky rooms and telling the Loftus story with the aid of lighting and pyrotechnics. The nine year old that was part of our small tour group was literally whimpering and burying her head in her mom’s shoulder. The house has had many owners and each owner has befallen some kind of tragic fate. The last owner dissapeared in the late 1990’s and was ‘found’ two years later in an English nursing home. When asked why she suddenly left and didn’t tell anyone, she replied, “The House told me it was time to leave.” The guide highlights facts like the house was inherited by the Loftus Family in 1666, and that there are 9 windows at the top, in the middle and on the bottom. Turn 999 upside down and….you get the idea!

You are not allowed to take photos while inside the house which is a shame. There is a magnificent staircase in the house, sister to the staircase in the Titanic, and the staircase at the Pope’s house. (Do you call it the Pope’s house??? Or palace? Or residence?) There is no way I would be able for the night time Lock In that happens once a month.

A movie was made about the house last year and will be shown in theatres soon. Not sure I’ll be watching it….. scary movies like this one mean I don’t sleep for weeks.

D loved photographing me holding up traffic trying to take a photo of Loftus Hall and booking it back to my car.

Templetown Church

Speaking of ruins, we ate at Templers Inn the first evening and there were some pretty cool ruins of Templetown Church across the way. Coincidentally Templers Inn had some of the best fish and chips (breaded monkfish) I have ever had! The church sits on a graveyard overlooking the sea.

Tintern Abbey and Gardens.

As far as abbey ruins go, these ones feel pretty restored. FYI- the place does not feel the most kid friendly. We grabbed a cuppa in the tearooms and it felt a little like we were being ‘watched over’ with the littles. So we decided not to go in and instead take a stroll around the vast, winding gardens.

We came across the old ruins of the gardeners house. The gardens are huge- I am in awe of the job he must have had!

Duncannon

This little village has a lot going for it. There is a vast windy beach, where the cousins built yet more castles for a little while.

D took her two home for a nap and mom and I took my littles for a ramble. We discovered Duncannon Fort.

The fort was closed on this particular day, but we met two donkeys which delighted the kids. They called them Harry and Sally.

There’s also a lovely little harbor at the end of the village.

A fabulous two nights in Wexford! As I pulled back into Cork, I checked the odometer. 2207 kilometers clocked around Ireland in the last sixteen days. An absolutely brilliant trip!

County Louth, Ireland: The Wee County

The kiddos and I spent the last two days exploring Ireland’s smallest county- Louth. Even though The Grey has returned to the Emerald Isle, it stayed dry so we were able to pack a lot in.

Blackrock

This is your quintessential Irish seaside town. The small quirky village looks onto a lovely beach with a crazy tide. We really lucked out with our Airbnbs on this trip. This one was above a cafe overlooking the town and directly opposite the entrance to the beach. The kids were delighted!

Everyday we spent some time on the beach playing in the sand, collecting shells and building forts.

The tide on this beach is insane. It goes out a whopping three kilometers twice a day, and you can walk all the way out on the shore.

By the time the sun was setting. The tide had come all the way back in. Here was the view from our window.

The spotless town has won the Tidy Towns a few times so it was fun to take a gander through the village and check out its nooks and crannies. We came across Blackrock Park which has a playground. My two were all over it!

We discovered two more tiny beaches on the other side of the village; The Priests Beach (opposite the church) and The Ladies Beach. Because the tide was out, the two were fascinated by the jelly fish lying scattered for miles.

The town is filled with dinky stores, cafes and restaurants. We filled our bellies in Belle’s Tearoom before the afternoon spin in the car. My two are really going to miss Irish scones when we hit back to Seattle next week.

Carlingford

In the afternoon, we took a thirty minute spin in the car and ended up in the medieval town of Carlingford. There’s the ruins of two castles, the ruins of a Dominican Friary and Carlingford Heritage Center all within a small space. You also have gorgeous views of the Cooley Peninsula.

The Priory is the most impressive of the ruins, but after KJ discovered a dead bird on the ground…and then another….and another….and another, I decided this couldn’t be a good omen and we needed to get out of there.

As we were trying to make our rushed escape, the kids let out an excited squeal. A couple of horses were making their way towards us and when the riders let them pet the horses, they were delighted!

There’s also signs leprechaun shenanigans all over Carlingford.

The underground leprechaun caverns were closed but we discovered a gem of a place right across the road. There’s a tiny, magical themed park on Ghan Road and, maybe because it was completely unexpected, this was possibly my favorite part of the Louth trip. Each exhibit has a sign explaining it’s story. As we had done The Giant’s Causeway a few days prior, we were delighted to find Finn McCool’s chair. The hens were also a highlight for the kids.

Monasterboice Round Tower and High Crosses.

These historic monastic ruins date back all the way to the 5th century. The impressive high crosses are some of the oldest of their kind in Ireland. The high tower protected the monks and their valuables against the many Viking invasions and is as impressive as the more famed Gelndalough that we visited last week.

Old Mellifont Abbey

We have seen quite a few ancient ruins in the last few weeks, but I found Old Mellifont Abbey to be quite impressive. A fifteen minute drive from Monasterboice, it’s well worth a visit! Considering it was the first Cistercian Monastery founded in Ireland in 1142, it has held up well!

KJ tried his hand at a few photos.

Cuchulainn’s Castle….is closed!

After growing up hearing the stories of the ancient Irish warrior, we were disappointed to find this outside Cuchulainn’s castle.

St Peter’s Parish Church Drogheda

You might be wondering what the big deal about a church is. Well, this one houses a relic- a pretty gory one actually. A shrine to Saint Oliver Plunkett containing his head- his actual REAL head- lies within the church! I had to see this one for myself.

Next up- Wexford where I meet up with my mom and my sister and her family. Not going to lie, when it came to it, I was a little daunted by the idea of travelling around Ireland on my own with two little ones. But I’m so glad we did it! Of course we missed Wyatt, but we did and saw so much and I got to be a tourist in the parts of my home country that I had never seen before. The best thing I did was go to Mr Price before I left and spend thirty quid on some knick knacks. This bought me a few hours every few days. For example, if I was trying to pack up a house on my own to go to the next place, I would bust out new coloring books and colors. Or after a day of hiking and exploring when the two were starting to get a little snippey with each other, I would throw an activity box their way and BINGO! Two hours of uninterrupted peace! Looking forward to seeing what Wexford has to offer.

County Antrim and County Derry, Northern Ireland: My Happy Place!

My dad always says that when he wins the loto, he will buy his second home in The Isle of Palms in South Carolina. Can’t say I blame him- it’s a beautiful part of the world. This weekend, I found my ‘loto home’ location. It’s in Portballintrae, Co Antrim!

This place, as well as Northern Ireland in general, is STUN-NING! When we visited Slovenia a couple of months ago, I thought, “This is it! Nothing can beat the beauty of this country.” Who knew that I would be proven wrong by a corner of my own home country! County Antrim and County Derry were spectacular. It helped that we had good weather for our four nights there and our Airbnb was fabulous. Here is the view from our living room window. The Giant’s Causeway is behind that cliff.

The view of the back was quite lovely too.

And when I lay on the couch after putting the kids to bed, the view from the skylight was fab!

Here are some of the highlights from the Northern Irish portion of our trip.

The Giant’s Causeway

Let’s start with the obvious one. I was not expecting much from The Giant’s Causeway as I had heard many times that it was overrated. Along with our talented drama teacher I have taught my Seattle class a play about the story of The Giant’s Causeway for over ten years, but had never been there myself. So with our house five minutes away, the kids and I got up relatively early on the first day and hit for Antrim’s main attraction.

…..and I LOVED it!! We spent two hours there. As expected, it was busy enough when we got there at 9.30am. It was heaving with people when we left.

I had told the kids the story of Oonagh, Finn McCool and Benandonner on the way down to the causeway and they were fairly certain they had found Finn’s big toe in this next photo.

Money saving tip for The Giant’s Causeway: The National Trust would have you believe with their signage that there is an entrance fee for the attraction. It is actually free to walk down to The Giant’s Causeway. The fee is for the visitor center and parking at the center. Instead we saved a bucketload by parking at the railway station three minutes away, paying 6 pounds to park the car for the day, and strolling down through the tunnel to the volcanic formation.

Who knew rocks could be so much fun!

Portballintrae Beach

The North really has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world! There is one tiny shop at Portballintrae Beach and, as I had promised my kids some buckets and spades, we took a wander in to buy some. There was no prices on anything and when I got to the counter and the lady charged me 10 pounds sterling for two crappy, plastic buckets and spades, I was fuming. I was thinking What A Rip Off! the whole way down to the beach….that was until the kids spent three glorious hours having a whale of a time digging and playing. Best 15 bucks (when you currency convert!) I ever spent!!

Dunluce Castle

We finished our first evening by taking the five minute spin out to the Medieval ruins of Dunluce Castle. These haunting ruins have a dramatic effect on the rugged Antrim coastline. It’s a really cool, unique sight that smacks you right in the eyeballs as you round an unassuming corner in your car.

Ballintoy Harbor

The next day we hopped in the car, headed west and saw where the day took us. This is where my Game of Thrones obsession continues. Last month in Croatia I visited many of the GOT filming locations. Little did I know that Northern Ireland has just as many, if not more, GOT locations. (For the non- GOT fans, sorry for making you trawl through my slight addiction! There’s lots more to come…..) Ballintoy was the setting for the Port of Pyke which hosted Theon’s return to his sister Yara and the Iron Islands.

The kids had a blast climbing up on the rocky dunes and looking for fish in the rock pools.

Kinbane Castle

Next up was the small but stunning Kinbane ruins. This is one of the unknown, quiet castles in the area sitting on a little headland jutting out into North Channel. We counted 135 steep steps down to the ruins…..which meant 135 steeeep steps back up the cliff! I thought this was an amazing gem to find- the kids, not so much!

Ballycastle Forest and Loughareema.

We stopped off briefly at Ballycastle Forest as it makes a cameo in GOT as the whitewalker forest.

Loughameera is five minutes up the road from the forest and is known as The Dissapearing Lake. Once a year, the lake completely disappears. We just so happened to be there during its vanishing time. Apparently this is because of an underground sinkhole but the myths and folklore surrounding it are much better. At this point, the kids were exhausted from the Kinbane climb and wouldn’t even get out of the car for me!

Next time I am hoping to get a picture of a full lake!

Cushendun

This is a small fishing village right in the heart of The Nine Glens of Antrim. It is home to Glenmona House and Church with a lovely beach across the road.

The kids met Eireen The Goat and fell in love!

Ok, ok….I’m not going to lie. The real reason we visited Cushendon is because this is home to the caves that Melissandre gave birth to a demon on Game of Thrones. They are called The Red Caves and are pretty small and not all that awe inspiring. BUT…..we found out that the GOT crew had been there the day before filming!! You can see the equipment in the cave photos. The guy that worked there seemed to think the death of a major character would happen at this location. Hmmmmmm.

The Dark Hedges

On the morning of Day Three, we headed straight for The Dark Hedges on Bregagh Road. This road was iconic long before GOT featured it, and last year was voted one of the most beautiful places in the world so I knew it was going to be busy! It is basically an enchanting avenue of beech trees planted in the 18th century by the Stuart family. Their manor is opposite the most photographed attraction in Northern Ireland.

On their own, the singular beech tree isn’t anything special, but a street of them and you have something visually stunning. The ghost of Lady Grey is said to make an appearance around dusk on some evenings.

And in keeping with the theme of this post, here is the scene GOT used The Dark Hedges.

Downhill Demesne and Mussenden Temple

This was one of my favorites to visit. The Demesne takes about an hour to walk around and is made up of the grand ruins of The Downhill Mansion, The Mussenden Temple, and The Belvedere Temple along with a walled garden.

The view of Downhill Strand Beach from the Mussenden Temple is spectacular.

This was the final GOT filming location we visited- Stanis and Melissandre burned the old Gods on Dragonstone here. (Couldn’t find a picture of this.)

After rambling around for an hour on the demesne, we headed down to the strand for some beach fun! Always a favorite for my two littles!

The Walls Of Derry.

The Walking Tour of Derry is voted the number one attraction on Trip Advisor so I had to see for myself. It costs 4 pounds and was so much value for money. Growing up in the South, there was something about The Troubles and the bombs on the telly nearly every night! In fact, when I asked my mom how come they had never taken us to Antrim and Derry before (my folks ‘dragged’ us all around Ireland every summer in a trailer tent when we were kids) she said, “Well it wasn’t exactly the safest place to come with kids!” Duh! Amazing how two decades of peace can kind of make you forget. This tour gave personal insights in to The Troubles in Northern Ireland, as well as the general history of Derry. Our tour guide Tony was excellent and I learned a lot!

We saw The Peace Walls of Derry…..

….the second most bombed building during The Troubles (bombed 12 times)…..

…..the parking lot outside the second most bombed building where the English army had a massive base!!…..

….The Bogside and the iconic murals of The Bogside…..

……and The Apprenticeboys building peering down on The Bogside.

An excellent tour well worth doing. Long may peace last!

Bushmills

On our last morning we took a stroll around the historic town of Bushmills. I am not a whiskey connoisseur so had little interest in the Bushmills whiskey tour, but I heard it’s supposed to be very good. Now if there had been a famous winery tour……

Northern Ireland, you have blown my socks off! We will absolutely be back next year. And then we will do some of the things we missed this time- like the Carrick a Rede bridge, The Gobbins cliff experience and Rathlin Island. Next up- County Louth!

Wicklow: Ireland’s Garden County.

Um- there’s a bloomin pyramid in Wicklow! More on that later!

And now we come to the portion of the adventure that’s just Mommy, Ro Ro and KJ traveling around Ireland. First up, the gorgeous county of Wicklow.

Before I get going, I want to preface this post. If you see me in a photo (that is not a selfie) and a head or limb is chopped off, it is because a four or six year old took the photo. Cases in point:

We had a whale of a time in Wicklow. I think it is the county that inspired many of the Irish fairytales and folklore. It’s a beautiful place with so much to do- we stayed four nights and could have easily stayed another three. It also helped that the weather was savage most of the time! Here are some of the adventures we had while in Wicklow.

Aughrim

This was our base and it was ideal. Our Airbnb was in the small Aughrim Holiday Village where the kids had new friends to play with every evening. The tiny town of Aughrim has won the Tidy Towns competition a few times and I can see why. The place is spotless. It’s a charming spot with lovely walking trails winding around the outskirts of the town.

Kilmacurragh Botanic Gardens

This place is gorgeous. We packed a picnic, wandered around for an hour and soaked in the sunshine. The Cromwell seized Kilmacurragh House now sits in ruins after a 1976 fire. Rumor has it a renovation may be in its future.

The good old game of banana phone is still alive with my two!

Brittas Bay Beach

Brittas Bay Beach is a lovely, sandy Irish beach on the coast of Wicklow. We went on a glorious June bank holiday Monday not realizing that half of Dublin would also be there. Rock collecting and burying each other in the sand kept my two very busy. They also took a dip in the Irish Sea.

Glendalough

No trip to Ireland, not mind Wicklow, is complete without a visit to Glendalough. The name actually means ‘the valley of the two lakes’. It has monastic city ruins right in between the two lakes. We got in early to avoid the crazy crowds (it was still pretty busy) and parked at the lower lake. It costs 4 euro to park, but entry in is actually free.

There are nine walking trails of varying length at Glendalough. We followed the pink trail which fed in to the beige trail. This led us to the upper lake, on a steep climb up along Poulanass waterfall and down past Reefert Church. All in all, a three hour leisurely adventure including the trip to the monastic city.

If you ask my two littles what the highlight of Glendalough was, it will have nothing to do with the cool ruins or the beautiful surroundings. They will tell you all about the sheep that ‘followed’ us some of the way.

Clara Lara Fun Park

This is an outdoor park for kids five minutes away from Glendalough with a waterslide, a little race track, mini golf, lots of playgrounds and outdoor water activities. The promise of this park after Glendalough was the reason the kids hiked so well for me. Bribery at its finest! Poor KJ though- there are height restrictions on a lot of the activities. This place is more suited for six year olds and above. You also need a change of clothes for the kids. I did not realize this and Ro was like a drenched rat in the back of the car for the twenty minute journey home. Well worth it though. This was the highlight of her trip in Wicklow.

KJ did in fact do the waterslide one time, but I was too busy yelling at him to hold on tight that I didn’t get a picture. He said ‘he almost losted his brain’ doing it so once was enough for him.

Avoca Village

This small village has a few things going for it. First off there is Avoca Weaving Mill where three sisters started a now thriving business in 1723. You can take a self guided tour of the operating mill. One of the workers gave my two littles some yarn and made their day! It really is the little things with those two!

Avoca is also the setting for the the 90’s Irish soap Ballykissangel. (Game Of Thrones, Eat Your Heart Out!)

The Meeting of the Waters is also in the Avoca Vale. This is where the Avonmore and the Beg Rivers come together to form the Avoca River. It is the famed place that Thomas Moore wrote the verses of his most well known Irish poem.

Greenam Maze and Farm

My two LOVED this place. Obviously enough, there is a maze. We spent twenty minutes inside it but could not solve it! Actually, we were lucky to get out again. Lol!

The farm itself is pretty small but the nature walk around the grounds has lots of beautiful fairy doors and a treasure hunt with clues that kept the two littles enthralled and at the end they got to pick a ‘gold’ chocolate coin.

There are also two small farm museums here. One of them had a bottle exhibit. I am a self professed history nerd and I could have spent a lot longer in this room if I had been kid free.

Hidden Valley

This was the one attraction that was way over-priced in my opinion. It is a holiday home park that has a few activities for kids, especially on the weekends. Alas, we did not go on a weekend. We got a playground and a nice paddle boat ride out of it though.

Kilbride Old Cemetery and the Howard Mausoleum Pyramid

This was one of the highlights of my Wicklow trip. The cemetery itself is tiny, forgotten and hard to find! The GPS coordinates for this place are close but not exact. I’m so glad I persevered though. The Howard Mausoleum Pyramid was commissioned by Ralph Howard, the Viscount of Wicklow, in 1785 at the height of neoclassicism. Eight people have been laid to rest in this pyramid.

Powerscourt Estate and Gardens

Yep- this one might have been my Wicklow favorite. It is one of the many grand mansions in Wicklow but it is the gardens that sets this one apart. Just gorgeous. Two glorious hours were spent here.

This place gives the garden from Alice In Wonderland a run for its money.

There is a Japanese Garden in the center of the huge grounds.

Another garden houses The Pepper Pot Tower.

The favorite of the two littles was the garden with the pond that had tadpoles!

The estate also contains a little pet cemetery from the early 1900’s. Dogs, cats, horses and even cows have been laid to rest here.

Wicklow- what an amazing little county you are. Next up- magical Northern Ireland.

Spike Island: Ireland’s Alcatraz

I read an article last year stating that Spike Island in Cork had won the World Travel Awards (kind of like the Oscars of the travel industry) beating out Buckingham Palace, the Eiffel Tower and the Colosseum. Spike Island is a former prison site half an hour from my home place in Ireland and I thought, Why haven’t I visited yet?? So last week, while back in Cork, I loaded the two littles into the car and headed for Cobh.

You could actually spend an afternoon in Cobh without ever getting on the ferry to Spike Island. A grand cathedral and a wall of colored Georgian houses round out the harbor. The infamous Titanic’s last port of call was Cobh, formerly known as Queenstown.

The ferry ride over to the island is a tame fifteen minute spin. If you have any kind of grá for history, especially Irish history, Spike Island is a fantastic way to spend an afternoon.

The island was home to a 6th century monastery and an 1800 built, star shaped fortress. During the famine, Britain used this same fortress as their biggest prison. It was closed down for many years, but when the island was handed back to the Irish Free State in 1938, it once again opened its doors (or closed them depending on which way you look at it!) as a prison. It was actually open as a modern day Irish prison as recently as 2004. A sense of sadness tinged the day, as stories of some of the prisoners unfolded.

When you get off the ferry, you are given a tour lasting about an hour and then you get about two hours to ramble and discover the island on your own. The first unassuming white house that greets you actually plays a huge part in Irish history. It was where the English handed the island back to the Irish in 1937. The island is home to many cannons and much artillery. If the island had not been handed back, it is fairly certain that Ireland would not have been able to claim neutrality during World War Two as the British would have used it as a base.

There is a man-made, convict-built slope up to Fort Mitchel, where many hours of hard labor ensured the officers had a place to shoot golf balls. The fort itself is divided into different eras of the prison. At the height of the Great Famine, starvation and desperation meant people committed petty crimes such as stealing bread so they would be placed in prison (on purpose) which ensured they recieve a (terrible) meal everyday. Men like these were housed side by side with hard core convicts at Spike Island.

This part of the prison was burned in a fire in 1916.

The most eerie part of the prison for me was The Punishment Block. On the outside the shiny limestone almost makes it look welcoming.

But it was far from that! This 28 cell unit had the harshest conditions in the prison and housed many political prisoners. Our guide informed us that this building was a key part of Irish Australian history. When given the choice to spend the rest of their lives in The Punishment Block or be deported to Austrialia, many of the prisoners chose Australia.

The prison has many nooks and crannies to explore, each room telling its own story.

The modern day part of the prison is also hauntingly eerie. Ghosts of the past seep through the metal doors. I’m glad we came here during the day. I would be a wreck on the night time tour.

We had time to hike around the fort and soak in the beautiful views all around the island. I was fascinated to learn that there were non- prison residents living on the island until fairly recently. This little community were forced to abandon their tiny village during the 1985 prison riots. Now most of the buildings lie debilitated, a reminder of another time.

This was the school house- slightly different from my little school!

I highly recommend a visit to Spike Island. For me, it was one of the rare tourist attractions that lived up to its hype.

Next up, the Tour De Ireland with just me (Wyatt is back to work in Seattle) and the two littles where we take in Wicklow, Antrim, Louth and Wexford.

Do You Have The Gift Of The Gab? Blarney Castle, Cork Ireland.

Nearly every town and city has a tourist trap. For a Corkonian, it is the Blarney Stone. I grew up ten minutes away from this attraction but did not actually visit it until my early twenties when an American friend came to visit. The Blarney Stone is to Cork as the Space Needle is to Seattle. An enthrallment that foreigners flock to and locals stay well away from.

My good friend Julie, who also lives in Seattle, had a wedding in Kinsale over the weekend. So when I got a text from her on a Tuesday morning saying she would be visiting Blarney Castle and would I like to join, I thought why not! And me oh my! Was I surprised.

On the other two times I had visited The Blarney Stone, I had only ever visited the castle. I had never explored the rest of the grounds. This place has a lot more than meets the eye and the kids and I spent four lovely hours taking it all in with Julie and her crew. It was a surprisingly fabulous afternoon!

The fifteenth century Blarney Castle and tower house greet you when you first enter.

There are also little caves under the castle that you can explore. They are tight though! Not recommended for anyone prone to claustrophobia. We got about half way through before turning back.

The grounds themselves are stunning. Three or four trails lead you into gorgeous lush gardens such as the fern garden and the arboretum.

There is also the famous Poison Garden tucked right behind the castle hosting a collection of poisonous plants from around the world. The brochure reads, “It will either kill you or cure you.” The kids were enthralled.

The castle is not the only structure on the grounds. The gardens are also home to Blarney House, which is in of itself impressive.

My favorite feature of Blarney Castle and Grounds was the magical Rock Close and Water Garden. This beautiful place reminisces on mystical druidic times in Ireland with mini waterfalls and a megalithic tomb.

If you’ve ever watched The Never Ending Story, the following photo will draw on the heartstrings…..

We stumbled upon The Wishing Steps in the garden. Story has it if you walk down the steps backwards with your eyes closed, all your wishes will come true.

But the main attraction of this place is The Blarney Stone itself. It has legendary status all over the world. The story goes that if you kiss the stone, you will receive the Gift of the Gab (something I clearly don’t need!) Now listen, the stone is not in the middle of a field. It is right at the top of The Blarney Castle. You have to lean out over a steep ledge and shimmy your back over a 37 foot drop with the support of a gentleman who works there year round in order to kiss it. Not for the faint of heart! When we first arrived at noon, the line to climb up the castle was two hours. No thanks! Instead we explored the rest of the grounds and came back at 3pm. At that stage the line was forty five minutes. Still not ideal when you are on your own with a four and six year old. (Julie and crew had left at this stage).

(That’s the line winding its way up the castle!)

KJ was too small to kiss the stone, but Ro braved the heights and smacked one on. Afterwards she remarked, “That was kind of gross! So many people are kissing the same place!” Can’t disagree with her there. I am going to pretend that the reason I didn’t kiss the stone on this day was because I had already done it on a separate occasion (I really had!)….. and not that I chickened out when I looked down the 37 foot drop!

All in all, a really wonderful way to spend an afternoon in Cork. Thanks for inviting me Julie!!

Final Destination: Dubrovnik!

Where does four weeks go??? From starting in the glorious Lake Bled, Slovenia, to driving through stunning cities and towns, to crossing the Croatian border and visiting the Garden of Eden (AKA Plitvice Lakes), to island hopping to a mini paradise called Korcula, all with my three favorite people in the world….. it has truly been the trip of a lifetime.

For the fifth and final week we topped it off by spending the entire week in Dubrovnik- “The Pearl of the Adriatic.” All of our other destinations have been a maximum stay of four nights so it was lovely to slow the pace down. To really put icing on the cake, my parents and sister and her family joined us for this final week. The four little cousins had a whale of a time together (as did the adults!)

Here was the view from our Airbnb balcony. Wow!

The week in Dubrovnik was glorious with tons to do. I will preface this by saying Dubrovnik is indeed a tourist trap and was extremely busy. It was also by far the most expensive of any Slovenian or Croatian place that we adventured through. To be fair, we have found that the further south we have come, the busier and more expensive it gets. So with Dubrovnik being the most southerly- I suppose these elements are not surprising.

We did a lot in the week so I will try to break it down by activity.

Walking the Walls of Dubrovnik.

We picked an overcast, cooler morning for this and went early as we knew the crowds would take over from 10am onwards. It took about an hour and a half and the views of Dubrovnik were 360 degrees, encompassing red terraced roofs and the sparkling Adriatic Sea from all directions.

Wandering Inside The Walls of Old Town Dunrovnik.

Each and everyday we took a stroll around this medieval town and found something new and intriguing. There are the East and Pile Gates guarding the city, the ever- thronged main street of Stradun lined with cafes, stores and restaurants. There’s the Jesuit Steps, St. Blasius Church, and multiple winding alleys and lanes with something new to discover on each corner.

Real Housewives of Orange County, eat your heart out!

And of course there were many days we participated in grabbing a coffee or an ice cream with the masses on the main drag of Stradun.

Fort Lovrijenac

Fort Lovrijenac is Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar, sitting menacingly atop high cliffs overlooking the city protectively. As with most forts in Croatia, there were a lot of steps up and with a few breaks along the way (and some ice cream bribes) my two little troopers did fantastically! The views of Dubrovnik were breathtaking.

Upon exiting the fort, we meandered down into a snug bay- Pile Bay- with lazy fishing boats and lovely aquamarine water.

Banje Beach

Just outside the city walls lies the tiny Banje Beach. From this beach, the Old City looks like a lego set laid upon the Adriatic Sea. I took my one and only dip of the vacation in the crystal clear waters. Yep- I’m a wimp when it comes to the sea. My sister said it was painful watching me get in! Baahaaahaaahaaa!

Eating Out

We ate out every night and found some nice little nooks and crannies. But the restaurant that we came back to over and over again was Dubravka restaurant. With a view of the city walls, good food and fairly reasonable prices (for Dubrovnik!), we ended coming back here three separate times.

The City By Night

Because my amazing folks were in town for this portion of the trip, we got two fantastic date nights during the week. The first was just the two of us and we thoroughly availed of the evening by taking in the city by night, and frequenting the secret, but not so secret, bar of Buza. Here we saw people jumping off the cliffs which planted seeds in Wyatt’s brain for a future activity. More on that later….

On the second night out, D and C joined us and we frequented Buza bar again, followed, of course, by the Irish Bar.

D showed me how all the insta models are posing against walls these days. Lol!

Two really lovely evenings!

Diving Off The Cliffs At Buza Bar

Wyatt and I met in Hawaii. He was actually living there at the time, and enjoyed cliff diving with buddies on a regular basis. So when he spotted people cliff diving at Buza bar- he knew how he wanted to spend our final afternoon. It was a lot of fun!

Lokrum Island

The island you see in the background of all my photos is Lokrum Island. We decided to spend a morning exploring. It’s well worth it as there is a lot to do. My parents took the trip over with us. The ferry takes about fifteen minutes to cross.

The island has a monastery, where subsequently a lot of Game of Thrones was filmed. You can check out my GOT Dubrovnik post here.

There is a fort in the middle of the island with a formidable climb up to it. Ro let a heartfelt groan out of her when she saw the steep incline. The views from the top made it all worth while!

There are also plenty of hidden rocks on every corner of the island to sunbathe on and jump off, as well as a mini ‘Dead Sea’.

But it was the wildlife of Lokrum Island that made my two kiddo’s day. There were peacocks everywhere. KJ called these the ‘peahawks’ (can you tell he is a Seahawks fan?) and referred to them as The Bad Guys as they could peck you.

There were also rabbits all over the island. These were affectionately called The Good Guys. Lots of bunny kisses obtained on this day!

All in all a very enjoyable morning.

Another fantastic extended family holiday in the books!

La Fin.

And so our five week adventure around Slovenia and Croatia draws to an end. I cannot put into words what an unbelievable trip it has been. When Wyatt and I are (hopefully) old and senile, I know we will look back at this time-out we took to spend as a family with our two littles, and light up at the memory of this phenomenal adventure. A massive Hvala Slovenia and Croatia!

It’s back to reality for Wyatt in Seattle, while the kiddos and I continue our Irish adventure for another few weeks.

A Dip in the Adriatic Sea at Mlini, Croatia

We had one night to kill between our stay at Korcula Island and our week in Dubrovnik. We settled on Mlini, a little rocky beach town fifteen minutes from Dubrovnik.

The ferry ride from Korcula to the mainland is much shorter than the inward journey. A little fifteen minute hop across the pond. My head and stomach were grateful!

The two hour car ride from Oberic down to Mlini is stunning! It got a little hairy when the gas light came on and we realized the nearest gas station was a ways away on a one lane street winding its way along the Adriatic cliff face. I think we pulled into the station on fumes but we made it!

A few good friends of mine had visited a travel agency well over a decade ago and asked the agent to book them in somewhere sunny and lively for two weeks. She booked them in to Mlini and they now have the worst memories of Croatia. I can see why. Even though Mlini is a lovely, little town with a calm rocky beach, it would get very small fast if you were in your early twenties and looking for action for two weeks. It was ideal for the night, but to be honest I can definitely see why boredom set in for these ladies. In my opinion two nights is more than enough in Mlini.

There was a lot of construction when we were there getting ready for the beginning of the season in June.

The two littles had a fabulous time looking for crabs in the rock pools and taking a refreshing dip in the sparkling Adriatic Sea.

Next up we meet up with my parents, and my sister and her family in Dubrovnik for an entire week. Little cousins from Seattle and Ireland getting to spend time together in the Mediteranian. Lucky Duckies!

A Stint in the Split Area of Croatia

Dun, dun, dun, dun, dun, dun, DUN, DUN, DUN!!! *Sung to the Game of Thrones opening credits. Yes! There was a lot of nerding out (on my part) in Split as we visited some of the GOT sites. More on that later!

We had heard from a fellow Plitvice Lake hiker that Split and Dubrovnik were a little like the circus and I saw what he meant. Tourists are everywhere in Split and it was only May! For that reason, we stayed fifteen minutes outside Split in the tiny, sleepy village of Stobrec. It was super quiet as the season does not start until June 1st there- ideal for us!

We spent the first evening exploring the little coves, nooks, and crannies of Stobrec.

The next day, my two took their first dip in the Adriatic Sea at the rocky beach of Camp Camping.

Later, when we attempted to visit the playground only to find it closed, I had two sad faces looking up at me. So when they asked if they could go catch the fishies in the shallow bay fully clothed, yes was the definitive answer.

The old historic city of Split was indeed heaving with people as we had been warned, and it was still well worth the visit. We spent two days exploring the different sites.

Diocletian’s Palace is impressive. The square has a cathedral and bell tower on one side guarded by a sphinx. College student Roman Soldiers making a little extra money by posing with tourists roam the center.

And then we climbed the bell tower and I almost had a heart attack. I am not afraid of heights….but I do NOT recommend climbing this view laiden building with a four and six-year-old. Plenty of open spaces veerryyy high off the ground for little feet to fall through. I was very glad when our feet touched the ground again.

And then we wandered aimlessly inside the city walls discovering the People’s Square and the statue of Gregory of Nin and rubbed his toe for good luck. We also stopped at a tiny Mexican joint and had a scrumptious lunch.

Killian found a feather and stuck it in his hat…..as you do!

For anyone that knows Wyatt they will certainly know what a huge (at times annoying) Washington State fan he is. The Irish gal in me will never understand the American obsession with college sports but that’s another day’s story. He had read on a WSU Cougar page that there was a Coug bar in Split. And so our quest to find the bar began. As we started following google maps (which has been the We Will Get You Somewhere In The Vicinity Of Where You Need To Go And You Figure Out The Rest app on this vacation) Wyatt spotted a dude with a cougar hat and yells his obligatory, ‘Go Cougs!’ Dude yells, ‘Thanks!’ And the conversation goes something like this:

Wyatt- Did you know there is a bar right around here that is owned by a Coug.

Dude- No way!

Wyatt- Yup. We are on our way to find it right now.

Dude- Ha ha! Awesome! Actually I own the bar. I’ll bring you there right now.

How random and awesome! The bar is called The Sanctuary and the co- owners Chad and Tristan were super cool.

Heads up- you have now come to the super nerd part of the blog. I am a huge Game of Thrones fan. HUGE! I have read the books twice and watched the series twice and have become the biggest GOT conspiracy theory weirdo. I fully admit to being very far down the GOT rabbit hole. So while in Split, obviously, we visited two GOT filming locations.

The first was the cellars of the Diocletians Palace. This is where Dany ruled and imprisoned her dragons in Season 5.

Yep. I loved it. It’s such a weird, cool place and the kids loved playing chase in the little alleys and hidden nooks.

The second GOT location we visited was a fifteen minute drive up the mountain to Fort Kliss….AKA Mereen. LOVED it!!!!!

Even if you’re not a Game of Thrones fan, this fortress is well worth visiting. It has amazing views of Split, and we had hail the day we visited so it certainly looked like Winter Was Coming.

Not a bad way to spend Mother’s Day! Next up…we are doing some island hopping and heading to the island of Korcula!

Zagreb: The Croatian Capital With A Lower Town, An Upper Town And A Lot Of Bells!

Zagreb is not initially what I would call a ‘pretty’ city, like Ljubljana was. It is what Wyatt calls a ‘city- city’. The more time I spend here, the more I appreciate and enjoy its charming character, rich history, and outdoor cafe scene. Here are some of the things we enjoyed while in Zagreb.

Kaptol

There are two upper towns in Zagreb, and they actually had beef with each other back in the day. The Kaptol area has a beautiful cathedral which, just like Barcelona, is under constant construction. Other enticing features include a glistening Holy Mary fountain, which the kids called The Goldy, and some gorgeous gold-roofed buildings.

Gradec

The ‘other’ Zagreb upper town, Gradec, is lined with cobblestone streets. One of the main attractions is Saint Mark’s Church. The outstanding feature of the church is its roof which has the medieval Croatian coat of arms on it. Today there were some stern looking guards outside who, when peppered with questions from my curious two, refused to speak. And all of a sudden they embarked on a little march for themselves.

At noon everyday, a cannon is shot out of the tower in Gradec. Even though we knew it was coming, it still scared the life out of us. We caught a video of it.

There’s some impressive views of Zagreb from up here.

And Zagreb has it’s own mini lock gate with more fab views overlooking the city.

The kids even found their favorite street artist in the area up here.

A tiny funicular links lower town to upper town. We were cruel though and made the kids walk up!

And right by the city wall we stumbled upon a little shrine tunnel to the Blessed Mary. We had no idea we were coming up on it, and were shushed vigorously as we entered.

Lower Town.

A mix of swanky hotels, outdoor cafe streets and some lovely parks and quirky statues make up Lower Town.

Tkalciceva Street

This delightful street was one of my favorite parts of Zagreb. I haven’t a clue how to pronounce the name! It is lined with restaurants and the vibe is very hip. This is where Zagrebians come to eat during the day and party at night.

There is a store on this street called Here Lie Dragons, AKA The Nerd Store and the kids (and I) loved it!

…and they had The Hound’s helmet. Eeeeek!

Museums
Zagreb is full of museums, with some very quirky ones including The Museum of Broken Relationships, The Torture Museum and the 80s Museum.

We settled on The Museum of Illusions to bring the kids to and I’m so glad we did. This is a tiny two-storey museum crammed with some awesome stuff.

Don’t stare at this one too long…….

Dolac Market

Zagreb has a daily farmers market and it’s pretty big. Stalls upon red stalls offer almost everything. Of course, the kids were fascinated with the toy stalls.

Jelacic Square

This is at the heart of Zagreb and connects the two upper towns and lower town. The statues of Cont Josip Jelacic overlooks the square with his sword permanently taking aim at his audience.

…..and then yesterday evening the kids met The Pigeon Man of Jelacic Square and this happened:

I tend to think of pigeons of rats of the sky so there was a lot of hand scrubbing when we got home. Ro was so enthralled with the experience that her new spirit animal is now the bloomin pigeon.

We also came across soldiers marching in a very serious manner as we left the square. It was a little eerie if I’m being honest!

The Free Little Blue Train

The little blue train leaves from the square and takes you on a figure 8 fifteen minute journey around the lower city. As KJ is a big ‘Choo Choo’ fan, this was a highlight.